Beekeeping Basics 101 Page 2.
Beekeeping Basics 101 Page 2.
Beekeeping Basics 101 Page 2. covers beekeeping tools and clothing needed for properly managing a hive. Beekeeping Basics 101 Page 2. also provides links to quality venders that supply beekeeping supplies.
Beekeeping Basics 101 Page 2. Basic tools required to get started in Beekeeping:
- Bee Veil & Hat
- Long Sleeve Shirt or Coveralls
- Hive Tool
- Frame Grip Tool/ Clamp (used to lift frames from hive)
- Pocket Knife (optional) Please use a clean dedicated Knife used only for your Beekeeping!(a true Beekeepers multi-tool that’s ideal for cleaning frames, cutting comb, prying frames apart and removing propolis)
- 5 Gallon Bucket used to carry tools to and from inspections & to place burr comb in.
Note: The equipment listed above can be purchased from any quality Beekeeping supplier. Listed below are just a couple of suppliers we have dealt with in the past and have been extremely satisfied with their service and quality of merchandise.
Man Lake Ltd. www.mannlakeltd.com
Dadant & Sons : www.dadant.com
Kelley Beekeeping: www.kelleybees.com
Miller Bee Supply: www.millerbeesupply.com
Brushy Mountain Bee Farm: www.brushymountainbeefarm.com
Ruhl Beekeeping Supply: www.ruhlbeesupply.com
Better Bee Beekeeping Supply: www.betterbee.com
Basic Hive Equipment
Beekeeping Basics 101 Page 2. Hive Equipment
Getting started in Beekeeping can be extremely confusing if you do not have someone that is experienced that can help you along.
Hive: A complete hive kit can be purchased from most Beekeeping supply stores. Many of these can be found online by doing a search fro Beekeeping Supplies. In most cases this is the way to go as you will get everything needed to start your new hive and will not be lost when trying to make sure you have obtained everything needed to get started.
Click on picture for larger view of hive body parts.
Hive Stand or Base: Starting from the bottom of the hive you will need something to set your hive on to keep it off the ground. Many Beekeepers use Concrete Cinder Blocks, Old Railroad Ties, 4×4’s or manufactured Hive Stands.
No matter what you decide to use make sure its sturdy and can securely hold several hundred pounds. As your colony grows and honey production starts you don’t want your hive tipping over.
Wooden Hive Stand with Landing:
The wooden hive stand is optional and will save you a couple of bucks if your on a budget. Many Beekeepers place this stand directly on the ground which we highly recommend not doing as it allows crawling bugs like ants to easily enter the hive.
The bottom board sits directly on the wooden hive stand (if used). Bottom boards extend slightly further out than the hive bodies which form a landing allowing Bees a take off and landing point. The bottom board is the foundation of the hive and should be placed on a stable secure stand.
A Word About Woodenware Componenets: Many Beekeepers will argue that woodenware has to be totally perfect. Hive boxes have to be exact with no knots and components have to fit like a glove or bees will not accept them. The truth is those that make these claims have not been beekeeping very long or they just want to see you spend your hard earned money. There is nothing wrong with buying seconds. The fit may not be great, knots may be ugly and some components may be slightly off but trust me, give those shiny new boxes that have a fresh coat of paint a couple years in the sun and elements it aint gonna a difference to you or the bees. Anything that don’t fit perfect the bees will seal up.
Hive Bodies: (Deeps)
When assembling a new hive we always use and recommend using Deep Hive Bodies for the Brood Chamber. A Deep measure 9 5/8″ high and is a full 3″ taller than Supers which the Bees use for honey production and storage. Some Beekeepers have started using Supers for both Honey Production and Brood so that all their wooden-ware (hive bodies) is identical and can be used for both Brood and Honey. We highly recommend sticking with using Deeps for your Brood Chambers for several reasons. As we mentioned a Deep is a full 3″ taller than a Super and if counting both sides of the frame you have a full 6″ more area for the Queen to lay eggs. This also means the Queen has to travel less and does not have to climb up to the next Super as she fills cells with eggs. A strong colony will have at least two Deeps for raising Brood. A Deep hold 10 frames. A booming colony will have up to three Deeps or Brood Chambers.
Hive Bodies: (Supers)
Supers are used for Honey Production and Honey Storage. Supers sit directly above the Brood Chamber/s and measure 6 5/8″ high. During an extremely good flow it is not uncommon for several Supers to be used for honey production. It is a good idea to always keep a couple of extra Supers on hand in the event they are needed. Supers can hold up to 10 Frames but many Beekeepers use only 9 which allows the Bees to pull or draw the wax comb further out beyond the frame which allows a de-capping tool to be used to remove the wax caps off the comb to extract the honey and allows the Bees more room for honey production.
Wooden Hive Frame With Wax Foundation
Hive frames can be made of wood or plastic. I personally do not care for plastic for several reasons. For first time beekeepers I highly recommend starting out with wood hive frames that accept wax foundation. Drawn Comb is a thing of beauty and it just don’t happen all the time with man made plastic hive frames. Compare the pictures above of drawn wax foundation to the plastic ones found below, the pictures speak for themselves.
Plastic Hive Frames with poorly drawn wax comb.